Crafting a raglan sleeve jacket with a full lining is a rewarding project that combines tailoring techniques with thoughtful garment construction. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step approach to creating a professional-quality jacket from start to finish. We’ll focus on practical, actionable steps, ensuring you have all the information needed to successfully complete this project.
Essential Tools and Materials
Before we begin, let’s gather the necessary tools and materials. Having everything prepared in advance will make the process smoother and more efficient.
Fabric and Interfacing
Choosing the right fabric is crucial for the final look and feel of your jacket.
- Outer Fabric: A medium-weight woven fabric is ideal. Think wool flannel, tweed, denim, or a structured cotton twill. These fabrics hold their shape well and are stable to sew. For a lighter jacket, linen or a gabardine can work. The quantity will depend on your pattern, but typically you’ll need 2-3 yards.
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Lining Fabric: A smooth, slippery fabric is best for the lining. This allows the jacket to glide on and off easily over other clothing. Bemberg cupro, silk charmeuse, or acetate are excellent choices. Avoid cotton or other “grabby” fabrics. The lining fabric quantity will be similar to your outer fabric.
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Interfacing: Use a light-to-medium weight fusible interfacing that matches the weight of your outer fabric. Interfacing is essential for adding structure and stability to key areas of the jacket.
Notions and Haberdashery
These are the small but vital components that complete your project.
- Pattern: A raglan sleeve jacket pattern is a must. Ensure the pattern you select includes separate pieces for the shell and the lining.
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Thread: All-purpose polyester thread in colors that match both your outer and lining fabrics.
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Buttons or Zipper: This depends on the pattern design. Choose buttons that complement your fabric. If using buttons, you’ll also need a hand sewing needle for attaching them.
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Shoulder Pads (Optional): For a more structured silhouette, consider adding small, lightweight shoulder pads.
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Sewing Machine Needles: Use a needle appropriate for your fabric type. A universal needle is fine for most fabrics, but a denim needle is best for heavier materials.
Sewing Tools
Having the right tools makes a significant difference in the quality of your work.
- Sewing Machine: A basic machine with a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch is all you need.
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Fabric Scissors: Sharp scissors dedicated solely to cutting fabric.
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Paper Scissors: For cutting your pattern pieces.
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Seam Ripper: An essential tool for correcting mistakes.
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Measuring Tape: For taking accurate body measurements and pattern adjustments.
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Pins or Clips: Use these to hold fabric pieces together.
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Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marker: For marking darts, notches, and other pattern details.
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Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing is a critical step in professional sewing. Use an iron with steam functionality. A tailor’s ham and a seam roll are also incredibly useful for pressing curved seams.
Preparing the Pattern and Fabric
Before you even start sewing, proper preparation is key. This stage sets the foundation for a well-fitting and beautifully constructed jacket.
Tracing and Cutting the Pattern
- Select Your Size: Use the pattern’s measurement chart to determine your correct size. If your measurements fall between sizes, you may need to grade the pattern.
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Cut the Pattern Pieces: Carefully cut out all the pattern pieces for both the jacket shell and the lining. Pay close attention to the cutting lines and grainline arrows.
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Adjust the Pattern (if needed): If you need to make length adjustments or other fit modifications, do so now before cutting into your fabric.
Cutting the Fabric
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Pre-wash/Pre-shrink: Always wash and dry your outer and lining fabrics in the same way you plan to care for the finished garment. This prevents future shrinkage.
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Lay Out and Pin: Lay your fabric on a large, flat surface. Align the grainline arrows on the pattern pieces with the grain of your fabric. Pin the pieces securely.
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Cut Precisely: Use your fabric scissors to cut each piece with smooth, confident strokes. Be mindful of notches and markings, transferring them to your fabric with tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.
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Cut the Interfacing: Cut the interfacing pieces for the front facings, collar, and any other areas indicated by your pattern.
Constructing the Jacket Shell
This is where the magic begins. We’ll assemble the outer shell of the jacket, focusing on a clean, structured finish.
Applying Interfacing and Sewing Darts
- Fuse the Interfacing: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to press the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the corresponding jacket pieces (e.g., front facings, collar). This step adds crispness and body.
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Sew Darts: If your pattern includes darts, fold the fabric along the marked lines, matching the markings precisely. Pin and sew from the wide end to the point, tapering off to a single thread at the tip. Backstitch at the wide end, but leave a long thread tail at the point and tie a knot to secure it. Press the darts towards the center of the garment.
Assembling the Front and Back Bodice
- Attach Front to Back: Place the front bodice pieces and back bodice piece with right sides together at the side seams. Pin and sew. Finish the seam allowances to prevent fraying (a zigzag stitch or serger is perfect for this). Press the seams open.
Attaching the Sleeves
The raglan sleeve is the defining feature of this jacket. Attaching it correctly is crucial for a great fit.
- Match and Pin: With the jacket bodice right side out, insert the sleeve into the armhole. The sleeve should be right side out as well. Match the notches and pin the sleeve seam to the armhole seam. The raglan seam extends from the underarm to the neckline.
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Sew the Sleeves: Sew the sleeve to the bodice along the armhole seam. Take your time and sew a smooth, even curve.
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Press the Seams: Press the seams towards the bodice, or press them open if your fabric allows. A tailor’s ham is invaluable here.
Constructing the Collar and Pockets
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Collar: If your jacket has a collar, follow the pattern instructions. This usually involves sewing two collar pieces together, clipping the curves, and turning it right side out before attaching it to the neckline.
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Pockets: Sew any pockets (patch, welt, or in-seam) as instructed by your pattern. Ensure they are placed evenly and symmetrically.
Assembling the Sleeves and Side Seams
- Sew the Underarm Seam: With the sleeves and bodice attached, you’ll now sew a single seam that runs from the cuff of the sleeve, through the underarm, and down the side of the jacket. Pin the raw edges together, matching the underarm seams precisely. Sew this long seam and press it open.
Constructing the Lining
The lining provides a professional finish, comfort, and hides all the inner seams. We will construct the lining in a similar way to the outer shell, but with a few key differences.
Cutting and Assembling the Lining
- Cut the Lining Pieces: Use the lining pattern pieces to cut your lining fabric. You will typically cut a back lining piece, two front lining pieces, and two sleeve lining pieces.
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Sew Darts (if any): Sew any darts in the lining pieces.
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Assemble the Lining: Follow the same steps you used for the outer shell to assemble the lining: sew the front and back bodice pieces at the side seams, attach the sleeves, and sew the underarm/side seam in one continuous stitch. Important: Leave a gap of about 5-6 inches in one of the sleeve seams. This is your turning hole, which you’ll use later to turn the jacket right side out.
Bringing It All Together: The Final Assembly
Now it’s time to marry the jacket shell and the lining. This is the most rewarding part of the process.
Attaching the Lining to the Jacket
- Prepare the Jacket and Lining: Turn the jacket shell inside out and the lining right side out.
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Match Right Sides: Slip the lining over the jacket shell, so the right sides of both fabrics are facing each other. The jacket shell will be on the outside, and the lining will be on the inside. Match and pin the raw edges at the neckline, front facings, and cuffs.
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Sew the Perimeter: Sew along the pinned edges, leaving the bottom hem open. Sew the neckline, down the front facings, and around the cuffs. Take care to sew smoothly and evenly.
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Clip and Trim: Clip the curves at the neckline and trim the seam allowances, especially at corners, to reduce bulk.
Turning the Jacket and Hemming
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Turn Through the Hole: Now for the magic trick! Reach through the turning hole you left in the lining sleeve and pull the entire jacket right side out. This is a very satisfying moment.
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Close the Turning Hole: Use a slip stitch or other invisible hand stitch to close the turning hole in the lining sleeve.
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Press the Edges: Press the neckline, front facings, and cuffs. This gives the jacket a professional, crisp finish.
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Hem the Bottom: With the jacket right side out, fold the raw edges of the jacket shell and the lining to the inside and pin them together. Use a blind hem stitch to sew the hem, or use a machine stitch for a more casual look. Make sure the lining is slightly shorter than the outer fabric to prevent it from peeking out.
Final Touches: Buttons, Buttonholes, and Finishing
The details are what truly make a handmade garment shine.
Buttonholes and Buttons
- Mark and Sew Buttonholes: Mark the placement of your buttonholes on the front facing. Use your sewing machine’s buttonhole function to create them. Practice on a scrap of fabric first to get the settings right.
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Cut and Attach Buttons: Carefully open the buttonholes with a seam ripper. Use a hand sewing needle and strong thread to sew the buttons onto the opposite facing, aligning them with the buttonholes.
Pressing and Finishing
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Final Press: Give the entire jacket one last, thorough press. Use a pressing cloth to protect your fabric from scorching or shine.
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Optional: Shoulder Pads: If you’re using shoulder pads, attach them now. Hand stitch them to the seam allowance at the shoulder for a professional, tailored look.
You’ve done it! You’ve successfully sewn a raglan sleeve jacket with a full lining. This project is a testament to your skill and patience, and the result is a beautiful, custom-made garment you can be proud to wear. Each step, from cutting to hemming, contributes to the final fit and finish. By following these detailed, actionable instructions, you’ve mastered a challenging but incredibly rewarding sewing technique. Enjoy your new jacket!