Retro outerwear isn’t just about recreating a bygone era; it’s about infusing your modern wardrobe with character, history, and a bold sense of style. The right vintage-inspired jacket or coat can become the centerpiece of an outfit, transforming a simple look into something memorable. This guide provides a practical, actionable roadmap to styling these pieces, moving beyond the superficial to give you the tools you need to build cohesive, head-turning ensembles.
The Foundation: Understanding Your Retro Outerwear
Before you can style a piece, you must understand it. Retro jackets and coats are defined by their silhouette, fabric, and era-specific details. Recognizing these elements is the key to successful styling.
- The Letterman Jacket: A quintessential symbol of American youth culture. Characterized by wool or Melton body, leather sleeves, and ribbed cuffs/collar. The styling challenge is to move it beyond a high-school stereotype.
-
The Harrington Jacket: An icon of British subcultures. Identified by its simple, clean lines, stand-up collar with two buttons, and classic plaid lining. It’s a versatile piece that bridges the gap between casual and smart-casual.
-
The Bomber Jacket: Originally for pilots, this jacket has been reinvented countless times. Look for the classic puffy silhouette, ribbed cuffs and hem, and a prominent front zipper. Retro versions often feature specific patches or unique lining.
-
The Car Coat: A mid-century classic, this coat is shorter than a trench but longer than a typical jacket. It’s defined by its clean, A-line silhouette, often with a hidden button placket. The fabric is typically heavy wool or tweed.
-
The Pea Coat: A naval staple, the pea coat is double-breasted with large buttons and a wide, notched lapel. The heavy wool fabric and structured cut make it a formidable cold-weather option.
-
The Trench Coat: A timeless piece associated with sophistication. Its defining features are the double-breasted cut, epaulets, storm flap, and a belted waist. Retro versions may feature different fabrics or bolder cuts.
-
The Shearling Jacket/Coat: The epitome of 70s cool. A leather or suede exterior with a plush fleece or shearling lining. The warmth and texture make it a statement piece in itself.
Mastering the Art of Balance: Creating a Cohesive Look
The secret to styling retro outerwear is not to go full-vintage. Instead, you create a dialogue between the old and the new, letting the jacket or coat be the hero without feeling like a costume. The key is to balance the retro element with modern pieces.
1. Anchor with Modern Basics:
Pairing a retro jacket with contemporary staples is the easiest way to prevent a look from feeling dated. The clean lines and neutral colors of modern basics provide a solid foundation.
- Example: The Letterman Jacket: Instead of baggy jeans and a t-shirt, style it with slim-fit black denim and a high-quality, solid-colored turtleneck. The sleekness of the turtleneck and the dark jeans modernize the jacket’s playful nature.
-
Example: The Car Coat: Wear it over a simple white crewneck sweatshirt and tailored chinos. The casual athleticism of the sweatshirt contrasts beautifully with the coat’s mid-century formality, creating a sophisticated yet relaxed feel.
2. Play with Proportions:
Retro outerwear often has a more relaxed, boxy, or voluminous fit. Use this to your advantage by pairing it with slimmer-fitting or more structured items underneath.
- Example: The Bomber Jacket: A classic bomber can be quite puffy. Balance this volume by wearing it over a form-fitting t-shirt or a fine-knit merino sweater. On the bottom, go with slim-fit trousers or straight-leg jeans that don’t add extra bulk.
-
Example: The Pea Coat: The double-breasted cut adds significant bulk to the upper body. To avoid looking top-heavy, wear it over a simple button-down shirt and straight-leg or bootcut jeans. The slight flare of the bootcut can help balance the wide shoulders of the coat.
3. The Power of Textures:
Retro outerwear often comes in rich, tactile fabrics like wool, corduroy, tweed, or shearling. Introduce different textures in your outfit to create visual interest.
- Example: The Shearling Jacket: This jacket is a textural powerhouse. Pair it with a pair of smooth leather boots and corduroy trousers. The varying textures of the shearling, leather, and ribbed corduroy create a dynamic, multi-layered look that is both stylish and cozy.
-
Example: The Tweed Trench Coat: The roughness of the tweed contrasts beautifully with the smoothness of a silk or satin shirt worn underneath. On the bottom, dark-wash selvedge denim provides another textural layer, creating a sophisticated and rugged aesthetic.
Styling Specific Retro Outerwear: Concrete Outfit Formulas
Here are detailed, actionable formulas for styling some of the most popular retro outerwear pieces.
Styling the Letterman Jacket
Goal: Elevate it from sporty to street-style cool.
Do:
- Turtlenecks: A black, white, or gray turtleneck is a killer pairing. It adds a sleek, academic vibe that contrasts with the jacket’s athletic roots.
-
Tailored Bottoms: Ditch the baggy sweatpants. Opt for slim-fit trousers in wool or a crisp cotton chino. This adds a sense of purpose to the outfit.
-
Crisp Sneakers: Go for a clean, minimalist sneaker like a white leather court shoe or a low-profile canvas sneaker.
-
Layering: Wear a thin, neutral hoodie underneath for a layered, casual look, ensuring the hood doesn’t overwhelm the collar.
Don’t:
- Avoid pairing it with branded t-shirts, basketball shorts, or overly athletic gear. This takes the look back to the bleachers.
Outfit Formula:
- Top: Black fine-knit turtleneck.
-
Outerwear: Classic wool and leather letterman jacket.
-
Bottoms: Gray slim-fit wool trousers.
-
Footwear: White leather low-top sneakers.
-
Accessories: Simple watch with a leather strap.
Styling the Harrington Jacket
Goal: Create a timeless, minimalist-but-stylish look.
Do:
- Button-Downs: A classic Oxford cloth button-down in white, light blue, or a subtle stripe is the perfect match. The collar looks great peeking out.
-
Clean Denim: Straight-leg or slim-fit dark-wash denim is an unbeatable partner. The denim’s classic feel complements the jacket’s simplicity.
-
Loafers or Boots: Elevate the look with a pair of suede loafers or leather chukka boots. This moves the jacket away from its casual roots and into smart-casual territory.
-
Layering: A thin, high-quality crewneck sweater in merino or cashmere can be worn underneath for colder weather.
Don’t:
- Avoid baggy jeans or overly technical fabrics. They clash with the Harrington’s clean aesthetic.
Outfit Formula:
- Top: White Oxford cloth button-down shirt.
-
Outerwear: Beige or navy Harrington jacket.
-
Bottoms: Dark-wash straight-leg selvedge denim.
-
Footwear: Brown suede penny loafers.
-
Accessories: Classic leather belt, simple metal-frame sunglasses.
Styling the Pea Coat
Goal: Project an air of rugged sophistication.
Do:
- Knitwear: A chunky cable-knit sweater or a heavyweight turtleneck sweater looks incredible under a pea coat. The textures work in harmony.
-
Sturdy Bottoms: Opt for dark-wash denim, corduroy trousers, or heavyweight wool pants. The coat is substantial, so the bottoms should be too.
-
Boots: The pea coat begs for a sturdy pair of boots. Think classic leather combat boots, a sleek Chelsea boot, or a rugged pair of cap-toe boots.
-
Scarves: A wool or cashmere scarf is both practical and stylish. Let it drape naturally or wrap it snugly around your neck for an extra layer of warmth and a touch of color.
Don’t:
- Avoid light-colored or summery fabrics underneath. A pea coat is an autumn/winter staple, and your layers should reflect that.
Outfit Formula:
- Top: Charcoal gray chunky cable-knit sweater.
-
Outerwear: Navy wool pea coat.
-
Bottoms: Black slim-fit corduroy trousers.
-
Footwear: Black leather combat boots.
-
Accessories: Gray cashmere beanie, a long wool scarf in a complementary color.
Styling the Shearling Jacket
Goal: Embrace its bold, textural statement.
Do:
- Simple Layers: Keep the layers underneath simple and clean. A plain white t-shirt, a black henley, or a thin long-sleeve tee lets the jacket shine.
-
Slim Bottoms: The jacket has a lot of volume. Counteract this with slim-fit jeans or tailored trousers. Avoid baggy fits on the bottom.
-
Neutral Colors: Stick to a neutral color palette of black, gray, white, and earthy tones. This allows the shearling’s texture and color to be the focal point.
-
Boots: Rugged boots are the ideal match. Think a pair of worn-in leather work boots or a sturdy pair of hiking boots.
Don’t:
- Avoid bright colors or loud patterns. They will clash with the shearling’s already strong presence.
Outfit Formula:
- Top: Plain black long-sleeve cotton t-shirt.
-
Outerwear: Brown suede shearling jacket with cream lining.
-
Bottoms: Slim-fit indigo selvedge denim jeans.
-
Footwear: Brown leather work boots.
-
Accessories: No-frills leather belt.
The Role of Accessories: The Finishing Touches
Accessories are not an afterthought; they are the details that tie your retro-inspired look together. Use them strategically to either lean into the vintage feel or pull the outfit firmly into the present.
1. Headwear:
- Beanies: A simple knit beanie in a neutral color is a great way to add a modern, casual touch to any retro coat. It works particularly well with pea coats and bombers.
-
Fedoras/Newsboy Caps: A fedora can add a touch of old-school glamour to a car coat or trench. A newsboy cap complements a Harrington jacket perfectly, adding a subtle nod to its British subculture roots.
2. Footwear:
- Clean Sneakers: As mentioned, a minimalist sneaker is the perfect way to ground a retro jacket in the present.
-
Classic Boots: Boots in leather or suede, whether they are dress boots, work boots, or chukkas, are a natural fit for the ruggedness of many retro coats.
-
Loafers: A pair of leather or suede loafers can elevate a Harrington or car coat, making the look more refined and preppy.
3. Scarves:
- Wool/Cashmere: A luxurious wool or cashmere scarf provides warmth and an additional layer of texture. Choose a solid color or a classic pattern like a subtle plaid.
-
Silk/Satin: A patterned silk or satin scarf can add a touch of Sprezzatura to a trench or car coat, creating a sophisticated contrast.
4. Bags:
- Leather Briefcase/Messenger Bag: A classic leather bag complements a trench or pea coat, leaning into a more professional or academic aesthetic.
-
Canvas Tote Bag: A simple canvas tote is a great way to add a casual, modern, and practical element to an outfit with a bomber or Harrington jacket.
The Final Word on Confidence and Execution
The most important element in styling retro outerwear is confidence. Wear the piece; don’t let the piece wear you. The key to a successful outfit is the seamless integration of a unique, character-filled piece into your personal style. By understanding the core principles of balance, proportion, and texture, and by using the specific, actionable formulas provided, you can transform your approach to outerwear. Retro jackets and coats are more than just garments; they are a form of personal expression, a conversation between the past and the present, and a powerful tool for crafting a truly unforgettable style.