How to Understand the Bespoke Fitting Process

Your Definitive Guide to Mastering the Bespoke Fitting Process

The world of bespoke tailoring is often shrouded in mystery. It’s perceived as an exclusive club, a domain of old-world traditions and unspoken rules. But the reality is far more practical: bespoke is a collaborative process, a partnership between you and a skilled artisan. Your role is not passive; it’s active and crucial. This guide demystifies the bespoke fitting journey, transforming you from a novice client into a confident collaborator who knows exactly what to look for and how to communicate effectively. We will move beyond the romanticism of bespoke and into the tangible, actionable steps you need to take to achieve a garment that is not just well-made, but truly yours.

The First Fitting: From Pattern to Canvas

The first fitting is a landmark event. It’s where your two-dimensional pattern comes to life as a three-dimensional garment. This isn’t a finished piece; it’s a “basted” or “skeleton” suit, held together by temporary white basting stitches. The purpose here is to establish the fundamental silhouette and address major structural issues before any permanent sewing begins. This is your most critical opportunity to influence the final product.

What to Look For and How to Act:

1. The Shoulder Line is Non-Negotiable. The shoulder is the architectural foundation of any jacket. It’s the point from which the rest of the garment hangs. The shoulder pad should sit smoothly on your natural shoulder, extending just to the point where your deltoid begins to curve downward. Look for:
   • “Shoulder Divots”: These are dimples or creases that appear just below the shoulder seam. This indicates the shoulder pad is too wide, or the armhole is too small.

   • Shoulder Collapse: If the fabric sags or droops at the outer edge of the shoulder, the pad is likely too narrow.

   • The “Hump”: A small hump of fabric right behind the neck is a tell-tale sign that the collar is too small or the back length needs to be adjusted.

   • Actionable Step: Physically lift your arms, stretch, and move. The shoulder should move with you, not restrict you. Point out any pinching or tightness and describe the sensation. Instead of saying, “It feels tight,” be specific: “I feel a pull just under my armpit when I reach forward.”

2. The Chest and Lapel Lay-Flat: The chest of the jacket should sit flush against your body without any puffiness or horizontal wrinkles. The lapel should lie completely flat against your chest and roll gracefully from the break point to the lapel notch.

   • Look for: A “bowing” or “gaping” effect where the lapel pulls away from your chest. This means the lapel needs more suppression in the chest or the gorge (the seam where the collar meets the lapel) needs adjustment.

   • Actionable Step: Stand naturally and look in the mirror. Gently press the lapel against your chest. If it springs back or fights against being flattened, point this out. Say, “The lapel is not sitting flat; it seems to want to pop out here.”

3. The Jacket and Trouser Length:

   • Jacket: The ideal jacket length is a matter of personal style, but it should generally cover your seat and fall to a point that is aesthetically pleasing on your frame. It should not be so long that it shortens your legs or so short that it looks like a fashion jacket. A classic rule of thumb is that the bottom of the jacket should meet the thumb knuckles when your arms are at your sides.

   • Trousers: At this stage, the trousers are often just basted. The tailor will be focused on the waist and seat fit. However, you can give an initial indication of your desired length and break. The break is the crease or fold created by the trouser cuff resting on the shoe.

     • No Break: The trouser cuff skims the top of the shoe with no fold. Best for a very modern, streamlined look.

     • Quarter Break: A slight, single fold at the front. The most common and versatile choice.

     • Half Break: A more traditional, noticeable fold.

   • Actionable Step: Don’t just accept the current length. If the jacket feels too long or too short, say so. For the trousers, wear the shoes you intend to wear with the suit and specify your preferred break: “I’m looking for a clean, no-break finish with these shoes.”

4. The Sleeve Pitch and Armhole: The sleeve pitch is the angle at which the sleeve is set into the armhole. This is a critical, and often overlooked, detail that determines comfort and a clean appearance.

   • Look for: Spiral or diagonal wrinkles that form from the armpit to the elbow. This is a classic symptom of an incorrect sleeve pitch.

   • Actionable Step: Perform a series of natural movements. Cross your arms, reach for something overhead, and pretend to shake someone’s hand. If you feel any binding or pulling, communicate exactly where it’s happening. “When I reach across my chest, I feel the fabric pulling uncomfortably at the back of my armpit.”

The Second Fitting: Refining the Shape and Details

After the first fitting, your tailor has taken your notes and begun to permanently stitch the garment. This second fitting, often called the “forward fitting,” is where the tailor addresses the finer points of the silhouette and begins to close up the more permanent seams. The “skeleton” has now become a recognizable garment, but it is still incomplete.

What to Look For and How to Act:

1. The Jacket’s Waist Suppression: The jacket’s waist should “suppress” or “nip” at your natural waistline, creating a clean, hourglass silhouette. Too much suppression will cause the back of the jacket to pull open at the vent, while too little will result in a boxy, unflattering shape.
   • Look for: The “flaring” of the jacket’s hem at the front or a pulling apart of the back vent. These are signs of improper waist suppression.

   • Actionable Step: Stand with your hands in your pockets. If the jacket pulls open at the front, or if the vents splay, point this out. Say, “The jacket feels a bit too tight around the waist, and the back vent is pulling open.”

2. The Collar and Neck Fit: The jacket’s collar should hug the back of your neck with no gap. If there is a gap, it is known as “collar gap.” This is a major sign of poor tailoring and is often a result of an incorrect posture allowance or a poorly-cut collar.

   • Look for: A gap between the jacket’s collar and your shirt collar at the back of your neck.

   • Actionable Step: Gently pull on the jacket’s front. If the collar separates from your neck, point to it. Explain, “I’m getting a collar gap here when I move.”

3. The Trouser Seat and Rise: The rise is the distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. The seat is the fit around your backside. At this stage, the trousers are often fully constructed, and you can now assess the permanent fit.

   • Look for:
     • “Smiling” Pockets: Diagonal creases that extend from your front pockets down toward the crotch. This means the trousers are too tight in the hips.

     • “Whisker” Lines: Horizontal creases just below the waistband. A sign that the trousers are too tight in the waist or seat.

     • “Diaper Butt” or “Saggy Seat”: Excess fabric bunching below your buttocks. The seat is too loose.

   • Actionable Step: Squat down, sit, and walk around. This is where you test for comfort. Communicate specific issues: “When I sit, I feel a pull at the back of my thighs,” or, “The trousers feel a bit baggy here under my seat.”

4. The Final Lapel Roll and Button Placement: The lapel roll should be clean and crisp, rolling smoothly from the break point. The buttonholes are often not cut yet, but the placement of the buttons can be assessed.

   • Look for: A wrinkled or inconsistent lapel roll. The button placement should be at a point that is aesthetically pleasing and aligns with the break point of the lapel.

   • Actionable Step: Pay close attention to the button placement. A misplaced button can throw off the entire balance of the jacket. If you feel the button is too high or too low, express this preference. “Could we lower this button just a half an inch? I think it would better balance the lapel.”

The Third (and Final) Fitting: The Finishing Touches

The final fitting is your last chance to make minor adjustments. By now, the garment should be nearly complete, with all the permanent seams sewn and the details like buttons and buttonholes addressed. The focus here is on the minute details that elevate a good suit to a great one.

What to Look For and How to Act:

1. Sleeve Length and Shirt Cuff Exposure: The proper sleeve length is one of the most visible indicators of a well-fitting jacket. The jacket sleeve should end at the wrist bone, revealing about a quarter to a half-inch of your shirt cuff.
   • Look for: Sleeves that cover the shirt cuff completely or sleeves that are so short that they expose too much of the cuff.

   • Actionable Step: Wear the shirt you’ll be wearing with the jacket. Stand naturally with your arms at your sides. If the sleeve is too long or too short, say, “I’d like to see about a quarter-inch more cuff here,” or, “The sleeve is a little too long and is covering my shirt cuff.”

2. Trouser Length and Hem: This is where you make the final decision on the trouser break. The trousers should be hemmed at a length that you and your tailor have agreed upon, with the proper break. The hem should be done cleanly and precisely.

   • Look for: The consistency of the break on both legs and a clean, straight hemline.

   • Actionable Step: Put on your chosen shoes and stand in front of the mirror. Your tailor will pin the hem. Check it from all angles and walk around a bit to ensure the length is correct. “This looks perfect. I’m happy with this break.”

3. The Little Details: Vents, Pockets, and Buttons:

   • Vents: The back vents (single, double, or none) should lie flat against your body and not pull open.

   • Pockets: The pockets should lie flat. You should not be able to see the pocket lining.

   • Buttons and Buttonholes: The buttons should be securely sewn on, and the buttonholes should be a testament to your tailor’s handiwork.

   • Actionable Step: Inspect these details closely. Gently tug on the pockets to ensure they lie flat. Button and unbutton the jacket to ensure the buttonholes are clean and functional. Point out any loose threads or uneven stitching.

The Power of Communication: Your Role as a Collaborator

Your bespoke journey is a dialogue, not a monologue from the tailor. The success of the garment hinges on your ability to articulate your preferences and describe the sensations you feel.

• Bring the Right Tools: Always wear the shoes and shirt you intend to wear with the suit to every fitting. These items significantly affect the fit and are non-negotiable.

• Be Specific, Not Vague: Instead of saying, “It feels weird,” say, “There’s a tight feeling in the back of my thigh when I sit down.” Specificity gives your tailor a roadmap.

• Trust Your Gut (and Your Mirror): Your tailor is an expert, but you are the one who will wear the garment. If something doesn’t feel right, speak up. The mirror is your most important tool. Look at yourself from every angle and critically assess the fit.

• Ask Questions: “Why is there a seam here?” or “What does a sleeve pitch adjustment do?” Understanding the “why” behind the “what” makes you a more informed client.

• Patience is Key: Bespoke takes time. Rushing the process is the surest way to a subpar result. Understand that each fitting is a necessary step, and each adjustment is a refinement.

Conclusion

The bespoke fitting process is an art form, and you are a vital part of the creative team. By understanding the purpose of each fitting, knowing what to look for, and communicating effectively, you can move beyond simply accepting a garment and actively shape it into a true extension of yourself. This guide provides you with the practical knowledge and actionable steps to navigate this journey with confidence and command, ensuring that the final garment is a flawless, personal masterpiece that is uniquely and definitively yours.