How to Understand the History of Lapels in Fashion

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Deciphering the Story of a Seam: A Practical Guide to Understanding Lapel History

The lapel, that folded flap of fabric on the front of a jacket, seems a simple and static design element. Yet, its story is a fascinating thread woven through the entire history of Western menswear and, increasingly, womenswear. It’s a sartorial time capsule, a silent indicator of everything from social class and military practicality to rebellious subcultures and avant-garde fashion movements. To truly understand a garment, to date it, to appreciate its craftsmanship, you must learn to read its lapels. This guide will provide you with the practical tools and actionable steps to do just that.

You don’t need a fashion history degree to become a lapel expert. You just need a keen eye and a structured approach. This isn’t about memorizing dates; it’s about recognizing patterns, understanding function, and connecting the dots. We will move beyond the superficial “wide lapels in the 70s” and dive into the nuanced details that reveal the true age and intent of a garment.

How to Begin Your Lapel Investigation: The Core Framework

Before you can interpret the story, you must first learn the language. Lapel analysis isn’t a single action; it’s a multi-step process. Here’s the framework you will use every time you encounter a new jacket:

  1. Identify the Basic Lapel Type: Is it notched, peaked, or shawl? This is your starting point. It dictates the garment’s formality and historical context.

  2. Measure the Width: This is the most famous and often easiest indicator of a garment’s era. Don’t guess; get out a tape measure.

  3. Examine the Notch or Peak Angle: The angle and height of the notch or the aggressiveness of the peak are crucial clues.

  4. Look for Functional Details: Buttonholes, stitching, and the roll line all tell a story about craftsmanship and original intent.

  5. Connect the Dots to Social and Historical Context: Why was this specific style popular at that particular time? This is where the detective work pays off.

Let’s break down each of these steps with concrete examples, turning you from a passive observer into an active interpreter of sartorial history.

Step 1: Mastering the Three Lapel Archetypes

Before you can analyze the nuances, you must be able to identify the three fundamental lapel types. Each has a specific origin and, in most cases, a set of rules governing its use.

The Notched Lapel (aka Step Lapel)

This is the most common lapel found on single-breasted jackets today. It’s defined by a triangular notch where the collar and the lapel meet.

  • How to Identify: The seam where the collar attaches to the lapel creates a small, triangular cutout. The angle of the notch can be shallow or steep.

  • The Story it Tells: The notched lapel is the workhorse of menswear. Its origins are military, stemming from the fold-back collars of coats designed to be buttoned all the way up for warmth. When unbuttoned, the top buttonhole and its loop created the notch. It signifies everyday wear, business attire, and sportswear (like blazers).

  • Practical Example: You see a single-breasted tweed jacket with a notched lapel. The mere presence of this lapel tells you it’s a garment for daytime, non-formal use. A formal morning coat would never have a notched lapel.

The Peaked Lapel (aka Pointed Lapel)

This lapel is characterized by a “peak” or point that extends upwards and outwards toward the shoulder. It’s a sign of formality and authority.

  • How to Identify: The outer edge of the lapel sweeps up into a sharp point, rather than terminating at a notch. The sharpness and height of this peak are key.

  • The Story it Tells: The peaked lapel is rooted in formal tailcoats and double-breasted jackets. Its upward-sweeping line is architecturally pleasing, drawing the eye up to the shoulders and creating a more powerful, elegant silhouette. It screams formality.

  • Practical Example: You’re looking at a vintage double-breasted suit. The lapels are peaked. This is a dead giveaway that the garment was designed for a business setting, a formal event, or a powerful statement. You would never find a peaked lapel on a casual chore coat.

The Shawl Lapel (aka Rolled Lapel)

This lapel is a continuous, smooth, rounded piece of fabric with no break or notch. It is the pinnacle of formal evening wear.

  • How to Identify: The lapel is a continuous curve from the collar down to the button closure, with no interruption.

  • The Story it Tells: The shawl lapel’s history is inextricably linked to the tuxedo (or “dinner jacket” in the UK). It emerged in the mid-19th century as a more comfortable, relaxed alternative to the tailcoat for formal dinners at home. Its smooth, unbroken line is softer than the peaked lapel, signifying evening elegance and sophistication.

  • Practical Example: You see a black jacket with a continuous, satin lapel and a single button closure. This is a tuxedo jacket. The shawl lapel immediately signals that the garment’s purpose is formal evening wear, like a black-tie event.

Step 2: Reading the Width – The Lapel’s Timeline

Lapel width is the most straightforward, yet often misinterpreted, clue to a garment’s era. It’s a pendulum that swings back and forth with economic and social tides.

  • The Measurement Method: Don’t eyeball it. Lay the jacket flat. Use a ruler or tape measure to measure the lapel at its widest point, usually just above the top button. This is your key metric.

The Lapel Width Chronology: A Practical Guide

  • 1920s-1930s (The Broad Shoulders Era): Lapels are reasonably wide, often measuring around 3.5 to 4 inches. They are part of a broader silhouette with defined, padded shoulders, a reaction to the more form-fitting styles of the pre-WWI era. Practical Example: You find a vintage wool suit jacket with a lapel that measures 3.75 inches. The wide, padded shoulders and a full chest confirm this is a classic 1930s silhouette.

  • 1940s-1950s (The Post-War Reset): Post-war austerity and a new focus on minimalism saw lapels narrow significantly. They were often straight and slim, a stark contrast to the flamboyant styles of the 30s. Lapel widths shrink to 2 to 3 inches. Practical Example: A single-breasted suit jacket with a 2.5-inch notched lapel and a short, cropped silhouette points directly to the late 1950s.

  • 1960s (The Revolution): The “Mod” and “Beatle” look brought a return to a very narrow, sharp silhouette. Lapels got aggressively skinny, often as narrow as 1.5 to 2 inches. This was a rejection of the conservative 50s. Practical Example: A skinny, mohair suit jacket with a 1.75-inch lapel is a classic 1960s Mod piece. The narrow lapel is a defining feature.

  • 1970s (The Explosion): This is the era of excess. Lapels exploded in width, often reaching an unprecedented 4 to 5 inches, sometimes more. This wide, dramatic style was a symbol of rebellion and a break from the past. Practical Example: You find a polyester sport coat in a wild color with a lapel measuring 4.5 inches at its widest point. This is unmistakably a 1970s garment.

  • 1980s (The Power Suit): Lapels remained wide, but the focus shifted from flamboyant to powerful. Peaked lapels on double-breasted suits were common, often measuring 3.5 to 4 inches, part of the “power suit” aesthetic. Practical Example: A double-breasted suit with wide shoulders and a 4-inch peaked lapel is the quintessential 1980s corporate uniform.

  • 1990s (The Return to Understated): As a reaction to the 80s, minimalism returned. Lapels narrowed again, often to a moderate 3 to 3.5 inches. The silhouette became less structured. Practical Example: A single-breasted suit with a slightly oversized fit and a 3.25-inch notched lapel is a classic 1990s piece.

  • 2000s-Present (The Skinny & The Revival): Early 2000s saw the return of the skinny suit, with lapels dipping back to 2 to 2.5 inches. More recently, there’s been a revival of classic styles, with modern lapel widths settling into a versatile 3 to 3.5 inches, seen as the new classic.

By measuring the lapel width, you can narrow down the potential decade of a garment with remarkable accuracy. It’s the most powerful dating tool you have.

Step 3: Deciphering the Nuances of the Notch and Peak

It’s not just the width, but also the shape and angle of the lapel’s defining features that tell a more detailed story.

  • The Notch Angle: A low, wide notch is often a sign of a more relaxed, casual jacket. A high, narrow notch is a more modern, tailored look. Practical Example: Compare two tweed jackets. One has a wide, shallow notch where the seam is almost horizontal. This is likely an older, more country-style jacket from the early 20th century. The other has a high, V-shaped notch that points upwards, a sign of a more modern or 1960s-inspired design.

  • The Peak Angle: The aggressiveness of the peak is a major clue. A gentle, soft peak is a sign of an older, more subtle formality. A sharp, high-sweeping peak is a statement of power and style, often seen in the 1930s or 1980s. Practical Example: You’re examining a vintage tuxedo jacket. The peaked lapel is subtle, with the point barely extending past the collar. This is likely an older, pre-1940s piece. A more recent tuxedo jacket from the 80s would have a much sharper, higher, and more pronounced peak.

  • The Gorge: This is the name for the seam where the collar and lapel meet. The height of the gorge is another dating tool. A low gorge (the seam is closer to the shoulders) is a classic pre-1960s style. A high gorge (the seam is higher up on the neck) is a more modern or 1960s style, designed to create a longer, leaner line. Practical Example: A sack jacket from the 1950s will have a low gorge, with the notch sitting just below the collar bone. A modern slim-fit jacket will have a high gorge, often sitting almost at the base of the neck.

Step 4: The Functional Lapel: A Lesson in Craftsmanship

Beyond the visible shape, the subtle functional details of the lapel offer deep insights into a garment’s quality and era.

  • The Lapel Buttonhole: A functional buttonhole on the lapel is a remnant of its military origins. It was used to button the coat all the way up for warmth. In formal wear, it’s called a boutonnière loop, designed to hold a flower. Practical Example: You find a vintage suit jacket with a hand-stitched, functional buttonhole on the left lapel. This is a sign of quality, often found in bespoke or higher-end ready-to-wear from the pre-1980s era. On a cheap, modern jacket, this buttonhole will be non-functional and machine-stitched.

  • The Lapel Roll: A good lapel should have a soft, natural curve or “roll” from the collar down to the button closure. A flat, pressed-looking lapel is a sign of cheaper construction and fused interlinings. The roll should be created by the internal canvassing and hand-stitching. Practical Example: You can physically feel the difference. Take a quality vintage jacket. The lapel will have a natural, dimensional curve. It will “roll” over your hand. A modern fast-fashion jacket’s lapel will be stiff and flat, a result of glue holding the interlining in place.

  • Pick Stitching: This is a small, hand-stitched detail running along the edge of the lapel. It’s a mark of quality and is a feature of bespoke and high-end tailoring. It was a sign of a well-made garment in every era. Practical Example: If you find a suit with barely visible pick stitching along the lapel’s edge, it is a significant clue to the garment’s quality and potential age. It’s an detail that is often omitted in cheaper, mass-produced clothing.

Step 5: Connecting the Lapel to the Broader Context

This is the final, and most rewarding, step. You’ve gathered all the evidence; now it’s time to build the case. Lapel trends don’t happen in a vacuum. They are a reflection of the economic, social, and cultural mood of the time.

  • Economic Conditions: In times of austerity, like the post-war 1940s, lapels narrowed and fabric was conserved. In times of excess and prosperity, like the 1920s and 1970s, lapels widened and became more dramatic. The lapel is a barometer of economic confidence. Practical Example: The extravagant, wide lapels of the 1970s were part of a larger trend of peacocking and individualism, a reaction to the conservative suits of the 50s and 60s, fueled by a certain economic confidence.

  • Social & Cultural Movements: The rebellious, anti-establishment movements of the 1960s and 1970s were expressed through fashion. The skinny lapel of the Mods was a rejection of their parents’ generation. The oversized lapel of the Disco era was a rejection of the austerity of the 60s. Practical Example: A slim suit with a 1.5-inch lapel is not just a piece of clothing; it’s a tangible artifact of the 1960s youth rebellion. The lapel is the most visible sign of its cultural context.

  • The Rise of Subcultures: The lapel has been adopted and adapted by subcultures. The teddy boys of the 1950s wore drape jackets with wide lapels. The punks of the 1970s deconstructed the lapel altogether. The lapel is a canvas for social commentary. Practical Example: You find a vintage leather jacket with oversized lapels. This isn’t just a style; it’s a deliberate choice rooted in the rebellious subcultures of the 1950s, a reference to a specific aesthetic.

Final Synthesis: Putting It All Together

Let’s walk through a final, practical example to see how all these steps come together.

You’re at a thrift store and find a single-breasted suit jacket.

  1. Basic Lapel Type: It’s a notched lapel. This tells you it’s a garment for daily, non-formal wear.

  2. Width: You measure the lapel at its widest point. It’s 4.25 inches. This is a very strong indicator of the 1970s.

  3. Nuances: The notch is low and wide. The gorge is also low. This confirms the earlier dating, as high gorges and sharp notches were a later trend.

  4. Functional Details: The lapel is a bit stiff and flat, with no visible hand stitching or a natural roll. This tells you it’s a mass-produced garment, likely made with cheaper fused interlining, a common practice in the 1970s to speed up production.

  5. Context: The wide lapel fits perfectly with the era’s focus on bold colors, wide ties, and personal expression. The lack of bespoke details points to the rise of mass-market ready-to-wear.

By following these steps, you haven’t just identified a jacket; you’ve read its entire history, from its intended purpose to its place in a broader cultural timeline. The lapel, once just a flap of fabric, is now a powerful key to unlocking the story of fashion.