A definitive guide to using lapels to add depth to your ensemble.
The unsung hero of menswear, the lapel, is more than just a fold of fabric on your jacket. It’s a powerful tool for shaping your silhouette, adding visual interest, and communicating your personal style. While often overlooked, the lapel is a detail that, when wielded with intention, can elevate an outfit from good to great.
This guide will delve into the art of using lapels to add depth, exploring how to select the right lapel for your body type, the occasions it’s suited for, and the subtle styling tricks that make all the difference. We will move beyond the basics, providing actionable, concrete examples that will transform the way you think about and wear your tailored clothing.
Understanding the Lapel: A Primer
Before we can master the use of lapels, we must first understand their anatomy and function. A lapel is the folded flap of fabric on the front of a jacket or coat, typically formed by folding over the front edges of the garment. The point where the lapel meets the collar is called the gorge. The width of the lapel, the height of the gorge, and the style of the lapel itself all contribute to the overall aesthetic of a garment.
The primary function of the lapel is to frame the face and chest. By drawing the eye upward, it can create the illusion of broader shoulders, a slimmer waist, or a longer torso. The lapel’s texture, color, and design can also add a layer of sophistication and visual texture to an otherwise simple outfit.
The Lapel’s Role in Shaping Your Silhouette
The most significant way lapels add depth is by manipulating the perceived shape of your body. Different lapel styles create different optical illusions, and understanding these is the key to mastering their use.
The Notch Lapel: The Everyday Workhorse
The notch lapel is the most common and versatile of all lapel styles. It’s characterized by a triangular notch where the lapel meets the collar. This classic style is a safe bet for any occasion, from business meetings to casual outings.
- How it adds depth: The notch lapel’s angular shape creates a clean, vertical line that elongates the torso and draws the eye to the chest. This is particularly useful for individuals with a shorter neck or a rounder face, as it creates a slimming effect.
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Actionable examples: For a classic business look, pair a charcoal gray suit with a medium-width notch lapel. The lapel’s clean lines will create a professional, streamlined silhouette. To add a modern twist, opt for a jacket with a slightly wider lapel and a higher gorge. This will create a more aggressive, fashionable look that still feels appropriate for the office.
The Peak Lapel: The Power Player
The peak lapel is a more formal and assertive style, distinguished by a point that extends upward and outward toward the shoulder. It’s typically found on double-breasted jackets and is the standard for formal wear like tuxedos and morning coats.
- How it adds depth: The peak lapel’s upward-pointing lines create the illusion of broader shoulders and a V-shaped torso. This is an incredibly effective way to add power and presence to your ensemble. It draws the eye out toward the shoulders, making the waist appear narrower in comparison.
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Actionable examples: For a formal event, a black tuxedo with a satin peak lapel is a classic choice. The satin’s sheen will contrast with the matte wool of the jacket, adding a layer of visual texture. The peak lapel will create a powerful, masculine silhouette that is perfect for a black-tie affair. For a more fashion-forward look, consider a single-breasted suit jacket with a peak lapel. This is a great way to add an element of formal elegance to a business suit.
The Shawl Lapel: The Elegant Statement
The shawl lapel is a continuous, rounded lapel with no notch or peak. It’s a distinctly formal style, exclusively found on tuxedos and dinner jackets. Its smooth, unbroken line creates a sleek and elegant aesthetic.
- How it adds depth: The shawl lapel’s curved line softens the shoulders and creates a more fluid, sophisticated silhouette. It draws the eye inward, emphasizing the chest and face. This is an excellent choice for a formal event where you want to project an air of effortless grace.
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Actionable examples: A black tuxedo jacket with a silk shawl lapel is the quintessential formal look. The silk’s smooth texture and subtle sheen will create a luxurious feel, while the shawl lapel’s rounded shape will add a timeless elegance. For a less traditional take, consider a velvet dinner jacket with a shawl lapel. The velvet’s rich texture and the lapel’s smooth line will create a visually striking and luxurious ensemble.
The Art of Lapel Width: A Proportional Approach
Lapel width is a crucial factor in adding depth to your ensemble. A well-proportioned lapel can balance your frame, while a poorly chosen one can make you look disproportionate.
Wide Lapels: The Bold Statement
A wider lapel, typically 3.5 inches or more, creates a powerful and authoritative look. It draws the eye outward, making the shoulders appear broader and the chest fuller.
- How it adds depth: Wide lapels create a strong horizontal line that widens the upper body. This is an excellent choice for men with a slimmer build, as it adds bulk and presence. It also creates a dynamic contrast with a slim tie, making the tie appear more prominent.
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Actionable examples: For a modern business suit, choose a jacket with a wide notch lapel. The wide lapel will give the suit a contemporary edge and make you appear more substantial. Pair it with a slim, solid-colored tie to create a pleasing contrast in proportions. For a more casual look, a sport coat with a wide lapel can be paired with a simple T-shirt and jeans. The wide lapel will add a touch of sartorial flair to an otherwise simple outfit.
Narrow Lapels: The Sleek and Modern Choice
Narrow lapels, typically 2.5 inches or less, create a sleek, streamlined, and modern look. They draw the eye inward, emphasizing the vertical lines of the body.
- How it adds depth: Narrow lapels create a slender, elongated silhouette. This is an excellent choice for men with a larger build, as it can help to create a more streamlined appearance. It also works well with slim-fitting suits and jackets, as it maintains a consistent, modern aesthetic.
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Actionable examples: A slim-fit suit with a narrow notch lapel is a perfect choice for a modern, fashion-conscious individual. The narrow lapel will complement the suit’s close-fitting silhouette, creating a sharp and stylish look. For a casual outfit, a blazer with a narrow lapel can be worn with a crew-neck sweater and chinos. The narrow lapel will keep the look clean and uncluttered, preventing it from feeling too formal.
The Role of Fabric and Texture in Lapel Depth
The material of the lapel itself is a powerful tool for adding visual depth. By playing with different textures and sheens, you can create a striking contrast that elevates your ensemble.
The Satin Lapel: The Formal Standard
A satin lapel is the hallmark of formal wear. Its smooth, lustrous surface reflects light, creating a strong visual contrast with the matte wool of the jacket.
- How it adds depth: The satin lapel’s sheen catches the light, making it a focal point of the jacket. This contrast in texture creates a layered, sophisticated look. It draws the eye to the chest and shoulders, creating a sense of luxury and refinement.
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Actionable examples: A classic tuxedo with a satin peak lapel is a timeless example. The satin’s sheen will pop against the matte black of the wool, adding a touch of glamour. For a less traditional approach, a velvet dinner jacket with a satin shawl lapel is a bold and stylish choice. The two luxurious textures will play off each other, creating a visually rich and opulent look.
The Self-Fabric Lapel: The Subtle Sophisticate
The self-fabric lapel is made from the same material as the rest of the jacket. This creates a seamless, understated look that is both elegant and versatile.
- How it adds depth: By using a single fabric, the lapel creates a continuous, unbroken line that elongates the torso and creates a sense of effortless sophistication. The depth comes from the subtle variation in the fabric’s nap and the way the light catches the fold of the lapel.
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Actionable examples: A navy blue wool suit with a self-fabric notch lapel is a perfect choice for a professional setting. The monochromatic lapel will create a clean, minimalist aesthetic that is both timeless and modern. For a casual outfit, a tweed sport coat with a self-fabric lapel can be paired with corduroys and a button-down shirt. The textured fabric will add a layer of visual interest, while the self-fabric lapel will keep the look cohesive and classic.
The Gorgeline: A Subtle Yet Powerful Detail
The gorgeline, or the height at which the lapel meets the collar, is a subtle detail that has a significant impact on your silhouette.
High Gorge: The Modern and Youthful Look
A higher gorgeline, where the lapel meets the collar closer to the neck, creates a modern, fashion-forward look.
- How it adds depth: A high gorgeline draws the eye upward, creating a more vertical line that elongates the torso and makes the neck appear longer. This is an excellent choice for individuals who want to appear taller and more streamlined.
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Actionable examples: A slim-fit suit jacket with a high gorgeline will create a contemporary and stylish look. The high gorge will draw attention to the face and shoulders, creating a sharp and youthful silhouette.
Low Gorge: The Classic and Traditional Choice
A lower gorgeline, where the lapel meets the collar closer to the chest, creates a more traditional and classic look.
- How it adds depth: A low gorgeline draws the eye downward, creating a more open and relaxed feel. This is a great choice for individuals with a longer neck or a more traditional build, as it creates a balanced and timeless silhouette.
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Actionable examples: A classic double-breasted jacket with a low gorgeline will create a traditional and powerful look. The low gorge will emphasize the chest and shoulders, creating a sense of authority and gravitas.
The Lapel Buttonhole: A Final Flourish
The lapel buttonhole, or boutonnière, is a small detail that offers a world of opportunity for adding depth. While a boutonnière is traditionally worn for formal occasions, it can be used in a more casual context to add a touch of personal style.
- How it adds depth: A boutonnière adds a pop of color and texture to the lapel, drawing the eye and adding a layer of visual interest. It’s a small detail that can have a big impact, demonstrating a thoughtful and considered approach to your style.
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Actionable examples: For a formal event, a single white carnation or a red rose in your boutonnière is a classic choice. The flower’s natural texture and vibrant color will create a beautiful contrast with the fabric of your lapel. For a more casual look, a small lapel pin or a subtle, fabric flower can be used to add a touch of personality without being overly formal.
Integrating the Lapel into Your Entire Ensemble
The lapel is not an isolated element; its effect is amplified by the other components of your outfit. To truly master the use of lapels, you must consider how they interact with your shirt, tie, and accessories.
The Lapel and Your Shirt Collar
The shape and size of your shirt collar should be in harmony with your lapel. A wide-spread collar, for example, pairs well with a wider lapel, as it creates a balanced visual on the upper body. A narrow point collar, on the other hand, complements a narrower lapel.
- Actionable examples: For a suit with a wide peak lapel, a spread-collar shirt will create a powerful and well-proportioned look. The collar’s spread will fill the space created by the wide lapel, creating a harmonious and balanced ensemble. Conversely, for a jacket with a narrow notch lapel, a semi-spread or point-collar shirt will maintain the sleek, streamlined aesthetic.
The Lapel and Your Tie
The width of your tie is another key element to consider. A good rule of thumb is to match the width of your tie to the width of your lapel. A wide tie with a narrow lapel can look disproportionate, while a narrow tie with a wide lapel can look lost.
- Actionable examples: For a classic suit with a 3-inch lapel, a tie that is also 3 inches wide will create a balanced and traditional look. For a more modern suit with a 2-inch lapel, a slim tie that is 2.5 inches wide will maintain the sleek aesthetic. The slight difference in width adds a subtle layer of visual interest without feeling mismatched.
The Lapel and Your Pockets
The pockets on your jacket, particularly their flap or jetted design, also play a subtle role in adding depth. A jacket with flapped pockets can add a more casual, sporting feel, while jetted pockets create a cleaner, more formal line.
- Actionable examples: For a business suit, jetted pockets create a sleek, minimalist look that complements the clean lines of a notch or peak lapel. For a casual sport coat, flapped pockets add a touch of rugged charm that pairs well with a more textured fabric and a wider lapel.
Final Thoughts on Lapels and Depth
The lapel is a small detail with a big impact. By understanding the different styles, widths, and materials, you can use it to shape your silhouette, add visual interest, and communicate your personal style. From the classic elegance of a shawl lapel to the modern power of a wide peak lapel, each style offers a unique opportunity to add depth and sophistication to your ensemble.
The key to mastering the lapel is to approach it with intention. Consider your body type, the occasion, and the overall message you want to convey. By paying attention to these subtle details, you can transform your tailored clothing from a simple garment into a powerful statement of style.