How to Use Lapels to Create a More Artistic Look

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Beyond the Basic Fold: A Guide to Artistic Lapel Manipulation

In the world of sartorial expression, the lapel is often an overlooked canvas. We see it as a functional component of a jacket, a predefined frame for the face. But what if we told you it’s a tool for artistic expression, a key to unlocking a more unique and intentional aesthetic? This guide is a deep dive into the practical, hands-on techniques for transforming the mundane lapel into a dynamic, personalized statement. We’ll move beyond the traditional fold and explore the art of manipulation, using simple methods to create a look that is definitively and unapologetically your own.

This isn’t about breaking rules for the sake of it; it’s about understanding the principles of design and applying them to your clothing. We’ll show you how to use a lapel to play with proportion, texture, and visual flow. Prepare to see your blazers, coats, and jackets in a completely new light.

The Foundation: Understanding Lapel Anatomy and Its Potential

Before we deconstruct, we must understand. The lapel, in its simplest form, is a folded-over flap of the front of a jacket or coat. Its core function is to create a collar, but its form is where its artistic potential lies.

  • The Notch: The classic V-shaped cutout where the lapel meets the collar. This is the most common style and offers the most versatility for modification.

  • The Peak: A more formal, sharp-pointed lapel that extends upwards. It’s a powerful, angular shape that can be manipulated for a dramatic effect.

  • The Rolled Lapel: A lapel that gracefully rolls from the collar down to the button. This natural curve is a canvas for gentle manipulation.

  • The Shawl: A continuous, rounded lapel often seen on tuxedos. Its smooth, unbroken line is best for showcasing texture and fabric.

Our focus will be primarily on the notch and peak lapels, as they offer the most opportunity for reinterpretation. The goal is to see these as not just fixed parts of a garment, but as fabric that can be shaped, folded, and accented to tell a new story.

Part 1: The Art of the Asymmetrical Fold

The symmetrical lapel is the norm. It’s balanced, it’s safe. But by introducing asymmetry, you immediately inject a sense of dynamic, intentional styling. This is not a messy, haphazard approach; it’s a deliberate choice to create visual tension and interest.

Technique 1: The Single-Sided Roll and Pin

This is a simple yet effective way to break the visual symmetry. Instead of rolling both lapels down, you’ll focus on just one.

  • Action: Choose one side of your lapel, typically the right side for a more traditional-looking left-over-right buttoning, and roll it back. Instead of a smooth, continuous roll, create a sharp, almost aggressive fold. Think of it as a hard crease rather than a gentle curve.

  • Securing the Look: Use a small, discreet safety pin or a tailor’s pin on the underside of the lapel to hold the new fold in place. For a more overt artistic statement, use a decorative lapel pin or a brooch to secure it, making the functional pin a focal point of the outfit.

  • Concrete Example: Wear a charcoal wool blazer over a crisp white t-shirt. On the right side, fold the lapel sharply back, creating a strong, diagonal line that exposes the inside of the jacket. Pin it with a minimalist silver bar pin. This creates a diagonal line that contrasts with the horizontal hem of the t-shirt, drawing the eye and adding a modern, architectural feel.

Technique 2: The Double-Sided Tweak

This method involves manipulating both lapels, but in different ways, creating a balanced asymmetry.

  • Action: On one side, create a small, tight roll, almost like a thin ribbon of fabric. On the other side, leave the lapel open and flat, but pull the bottom corner slightly outwards.

  • Result: This creates a contrast between a compact, controlled shape on one side and an open, relaxed shape on the other. The two sides don’t mirror each other, but they visually communicate and balance each other out.

  • Concrete Example: With a linen blazer, create a tight, almost military-style roll on the left lapel. On the right, allow the lapel to lie flat but use a small tack stitch or a discreet pin to pull the bottom corner away from the chest, creating a slight “wing” effect. The texture of the linen will enhance the contrast between the tight roll and the loose wing.

Part 2: Playing with Texture and Color through Reversal

The underside of a lapel is often a forgotten space. It’s usually a solid color or the same pattern as the exterior. By turning this “hidden” surface into a visible element, you introduce a new layer of texture and color to your outfit. This is particularly effective with jackets that have a contrasting lining or a different fabric on the underside of the lapel.

Technique 1: The Partial Reversal

This is a subtle way to introduce a flash of a different color or texture without a full-blown reversal.

  • Action: Roll the lapel as you normally would, but instead of the roll being a smooth, seamless curve, “break” it at a specific point. At that point, gently fold the lapel back on itself, exposing a small portion of the underside.

  • Securing the Look: Use a small, clear button or a tailor’s tack to secure this small fold. The goal is for the securing mechanism to be invisible, letting the folded fabric itself be the star.

  • Concrete Example: Your navy blazer has a satin-lined lapel. Create a crisp fold about two-thirds of the way down the lapel, exposing a diagonal sliver of the satin lining. The sheen of the satin against the matte wool creates a sophisticated contrast. This is a powerful, yet understated way to add depth to a monochromatic outfit.

Technique 2: The Full “Collar Up” Inversion

This is a more dramatic, high-fashion approach that completely recontextualizes the lapel.

  • Action: Unbutton your jacket and stand up the collar. Instead of rolling the lapels down, fold them inwards and up, so the entire underside of the lapel is now facing outwards. The collar remains standing.

  • Result: You’ve essentially created a new, wide, and textured collar. The original lapel shape is now reversed and visible, becoming a decorative element in itself.

  • Concrete Example: A tweed coat with a contrasting velvet underside on the lapel. Stand the collar up and fold the lapels inwards and up. The velvet now creates a plush, wide frame for your face, completely transforming a rugged tweed coat into an elegant statement piece. This works best with structured, heavier fabrics that can hold their shape.

Part 3: The Brooch and Pin as Sculpting Tools

Lapel pins and brooches are not just decorative; they are functional tools for shaping and defining the lapel. Think of them as more than just an accessory; they are a means of re-engineering the garment itself.

Technique 1: The Tension Pin

This method uses the pin to create a deliberate fold and tension in the fabric.

  • Action: Instead of pinning the brooch onto a flat lapel, first create a small, sharp pleat in the lapel fabric. Then, place the pin through the pleat, securing the fold. The pleat should be visible and intentional, a small sculptural detail.

  • Result: The tension from the pin pulls the fabric, creating a new line and changing the way the lapel hangs. It adds a three-dimensional element that a simple pin cannot.

  • Concrete Example: On a sleek black blazer, create a small, vertical pleat about halfway down the lapel. Pin it with a sharp, geometric brooch. The pleat will create a subtle shadow line and give the brooch a dynamic base, making the entire lapel look more textured and architectural.

Technique 2: The Double-Pin Drape

This is for a softer, more fluid look, using two pins to create a draped effect.

  • Action: Roll the lapel as you normally would. Then, about halfway down, use a small, discreet pin to tack the lapel closer to your body, creating a slight “tucked” effect. On the other side of the lapel, about an inch away, use a larger, decorative brooch to secure the lapel in a slightly looser, more relaxed position.

  • Result: The lapel is no longer a single, continuous plane. It now has a soft drape between the two pins, creating a subtle wave in the fabric.

  • Concrete Example: With a silk-blend blazer, use a small, pearl-headed pin to tack the left lapel tighter to your chest. Then, on the opposite side, use an ornate floral brooch to secure the lapel, allowing a soft cascade of fabric to flow between the two points. The contrast between the tight tuck and the loose drape creates an elegant, almost romantic feel.

Part 4: The Strategic Collar Stand-Up

Standing the collar up is a well-known trick, but it’s often done haphazardly. When done with intention, it can be a powerful artistic statement that completely changes the frame of the face and the feel of the lapel.

Technique 1: The “Peek-a-Boo” Stand

This is a subtle way to get the benefits of a stood-up collar without the full effect.

  • Action: Stand up the collar of your jacket, but then gently press down on the middle of the collar, allowing the sides to remain standing. The lapels stay in their normal folded position.

  • Result: You get a framed effect on your neck and the sides of your face, while the lapels retain their traditional look. It adds a subtle layer of height and structure without being overpowering.

  • Concrete Example: In a professional setting, with a tailored blazer, stand the collar up but press the back down. The collar will create a subtle, almost sculpted frame for your shirt collar, making your neck look longer and the outfit more refined.

Technique 2: The “Symmetrical Wing” Stand

This is a more dramatic approach, perfect for outerwear.

  • Action: Stand up the collar of your coat. Instead of just letting the lapels hang, manipulate them into a symmetrical, wing-like shape. Pull the top of each lapel slightly outwards, so they form a V-shape below your chin.

  • Result: The lapels become a dramatic, architectural frame for your face. This works especially well with coats that have strong, structured collars and lapels.

  • Concrete Example: On a classic trench coat, stand the collar up and pull the lapels out so they form a sharp, almost aggressive V-shape. This transforms a functional coat into a powerful statement piece, giving the illusion of a more angular jawline and a commanding presence.

The Lapel as Narrative: A Final Word

The lapel is more than just a piece of fabric; it’s a tool for narrative. Every fold, pin, and tweak you make tells a story about your intentionality and your personal style. It’s a chance to take a mass-produced garment and make it something that is uniquely yours. The techniques outlined here are not rigid rules, but starting points for your own creative exploration. Experiment with different fabrics, pins, and lapel types. The goal is to move beyond the expected and to see every element of your clothing, down to the smallest detail, as an opportunity for artistic expression. Your lapel is waiting to be shaped.