How to Wear Cufflinks with a Dinner Jacket

by

The Definitive Guide to Wearing Cufflinks with a Dinner Jacket

Wearing a dinner jacket is an exercise in sartorial precision. It’s a statement of formality and confidence, a look that demands attention to every detail. While the jacket itself is the star, the supporting cast of accessories plays a crucial role in creating a flawless ensemble. Among these, the humble cufflink stands out as a powerful yet often misunderstood piece. This guide will take you beyond the basics, providing a masterclass in selecting, coordinating, and wearing cufflinks with a dinner jacket, ensuring you project an image of effortless elegance and impeccable taste.

Understanding the Foundation: The Dinner Jacket and Your Shirt

Before you even think about cufflinks, you need to understand the canvas you’re working with. A dinner jacket, whether a classic tuxedo or a more modern interpretation, is defined by its lapels—typically silk or satin. This material dictates the aesthetic you’re aiming for. Your shirt, however, is the direct partner to your cufflinks.

The correct shirt for a dinner jacket is a dress shirt with French cuffs. These are double-cuffed, meaning the cuff is folded back on itself and fastened with a cufflink rather than a button. The fabric is usually a crisp white, and the placket—the part of the shirt where the buttons are—is often hidden, or features a pleated front, bib, or is made from a different material like marcella, a stiff, waffle-textured cotton.

Your cufflinks’ job is to not only secure the cuff but to also complement these specific elements. The cufflink should feel like a natural extension of the shirt and the jacket, not a random addition.

Selecting the Perfect Cufflinks: A Masterclass in Materials and Styles

The market for cufflinks is vast, but with a dinner jacket, your choices should be disciplined. The goal is sophistication, not flamboyance.

The Classic Choices: A Starting Point

The most traditional and safest choices are always the best bet for a first pair. These are timeless for a reason.

  • Mother of Pearl: This is the gold standard. A pair of cufflinks with a mother-of-pearl face set in a simple metal frame (silver or gold) is the quintessential choice. The subtle iridescence of the pearl adds a touch of light and texture without being distracting. It perfectly complements the crisp white of the shirt and the shine of the jacket’s lapels.

  • Onyx: Black onyx cufflinks are another excellent option. They offer a sharp, high-contrast look against the white shirt cuff. The deep black perfectly mirrors the color of the dinner jacket itself, creating a cohesive, unbroken line of color. Look for a simple, polished oval or rectangular face.

  • Simple Metal Knot: A knot-style cufflink, often made from polished silver or gold, offers a touch of understated elegance. It’s a more minimalist choice that speaks to confidence. This is a great choice if you want to avoid any precious stones or materials but still need a piece that feels substantial.

The Modern, Sophisticated Choices

Once you have the classics covered, you can explore options that add a bit more personality without compromising formality.

  • Engraved Metal: A simple, polished silver or gold cufflink with a subtle engraving—perhaps a monogram or a family crest—is a sophisticated choice. It adds a personal touch that is only revealed upon closer inspection. This is a nod to a bygone era of personalized accessories.

  • Subtle Color: If your dinner jacket is a midnight blue or another subtle color, you can choose cufflinks that incorporate a tiny hint of that color. For example, a cufflink with a small sapphire or enamel inlay in a dark blue would be an elegant way to tie the look together. The key is “subtle.” The color should not be the focal point.

  • Interesting Shape: Instead of the classic round or square, you could choose an octagonal, hexagonal, or even a geometric shape. The key here is clean lines and a polished finish. The shape itself provides the interest, so the material should remain classic, such as polished silver or gold.

What to Avoid: Common Missteps

Just as important as knowing what to wear is knowing what to avoid.

  • Novelty Cufflinks: Anything shaped like a car, a sports team logo, or a cartoon character has no place with a dinner jacket. These are for informal settings.

  • Oversized or Blingy Cufflinks: A dinner jacket is about understated elegance, not a flashy display of wealth. Avoid cufflinks with large, sparkling diamonds or other gemstones that are excessively large or gaudy.

  • Cufflinks with Too Much Color: A cufflink with a rainbow of colors, or a large block of bright color, will clash with the formality of the outfit. Stick to black, white, and metallics with very subtle, intentional pops of color if necessary.

The Art of Coordination: Tying It All Together

Cufflinks don’t exist in a vacuum. They are a part of a larger ensemble. The best outfits have a cohesive theme, and your cufflinks are a crucial component in creating that harmony.

Matching Metals: The Golden Rule

The most critical rule of cufflink coordination is to match the metal. If your watch has a silver case, your cufflinks should be silver. If your shirt studs (the small buttons on the front of some formal shirts) are gold, your cufflinks should be gold. This creates a clean, intentional look.

  • Example 1: You are wearing a classic black tuxedo. Your shirt studs are mother-of-pearl set in a silver frame. Your watch has a silver case. You should choose a pair of mother-of-pearl cufflinks with a silver backing.

  • Example 2: Your dinner jacket is a midnight blue. You have a vintage gold watch and your shirt studs are small gold knots. You should select a pair of simple gold cufflinks, perhaps an engraved rectangle or a knot-style.

This matching of metals extends to your belt buckle (if you choose to wear one) and your ring. Everything should be in the same tonal family.

The Power of Pearl: Complementing the Shirt Studs

If your shirt has shirt studs, your cufflinks should complement them. The most traditional and elegant combination is to have cufflinks that match the studs.

  • The Mother-of-Pearl Pairing: A shirt with mother-of-pearl studs should be paired with mother-of-pearl cufflinks. This is a classic and foolproof combination. The uniformity is both elegant and timeless.

  • The Onyx Pairing: If your studs are black onyx, your cufflinks should also be black onyx. This creates a powerful, high-contrast look that is both modern and formal.

The Jacket’s Lapels and Your Cufflinks

The material of your jacket’s lapels can also influence your choice.

  • Satin or Silk Lapels: The classic dinner jacket has satin or silk lapels. The sheen of this material pairs beautifully with a polished metal cufflink (silver or gold) or the subtle luster of mother-of-pearl. The reflection of light from the cufflink echoes the reflection from the lapels, creating a visual flow.

  • Grosgrain Lapels: A less common but equally formal option is a dinner jacket with grosgrain lapels, a ribbed silk material. This matte finish works well with a more subdued cufflink, perhaps one with a brushed metal finish or a simple knot design. The contrast between the matte lapel and the polished cufflink can be very effective.

The Practicalities: How to Fasten French Cuffs

Once you’ve selected the perfect cufflinks, you need to know how to wear them correctly. This is a simple but essential skill.

  1. Prepare the Cuff: After putting on your shirt, fold the cuff back on itself. The cuff will now have four layers of fabric, with the buttonholes on all four layers lining up.

  2. Align the Buttonholes: Pinch the two outer folds of the cuff together so that the buttonholes are perfectly aligned. This is the most crucial step. The goal is for the cuff to be a neat, symmetrical line on your wrist.

  3. Insert the Cufflink: Insert the cufflink through all four aligned buttonholes. The decorative face of the cufflink should be on the outside of your wrist (facing outward).

  4. Secure the Cufflink: Secure the cufflink in place. Most cufflinks have a pivoting bar that you turn 90 degrees to lock it in place. Others may have a ball-and-chain design or a fixed-back design that simply slides through.

A Note on Cuff Placement

The cufflink should be visible when your arm is at rest. The cuff should extend about half an inch to an inch beyond the sleeve of your dinner jacket. This is a sign of a properly tailored jacket and a well-fitting shirt. If your cuff is hidden, it defeats the purpose of wearing cufflinks at all.

A Deeper Dive: Beyond the Basics

For those who want to master the details, there are a few other elements to consider.

The Cufflink Fastening Mechanism

There are several types of cufflink fastenings, each with its own pros and cons. Understanding these can help you choose a cufflink that is not only beautiful but also practical.

  • The Whaleback: This is one of the most common types. It has a flat, whale-tail-like clasp that pivots on a hinge. It’s easy to use and secure.

  • The Bullet Back: Similar to the whaleback, but the clasp is a small, cylindrical “bullet” shape. It’s also very popular and easy to secure.

  • The Fixed Back: This type has a single, non-moving piece that is simply pushed through the buttonholes. It’s the most secure but can be slightly more difficult to get on and off. A classic choice for black tie.

  • The Chain Link: Two decorative faces are connected by a small chain. This is the most traditional type. It offers a looser fit and a more vintage feel but can be trickier to fasten.

  • The Knot: A decorative knot made of metal or silk. The silk knot is a more casual option, but a metal knot is perfectly acceptable for black tie. It’s one of the simplest and most elegant designs.

The Cufflink and Your Other Accessories

Your cufflinks are not an island. They should be in conversation with your other accessories.

  • Watch: If you choose to wear a watch, it should be a dress watch—thin, with a simple face and a leather strap. Avoid large, bulky sports watches. The metal of the watch case should match the metal of your cufflinks.

  • Pocket Square: Your pocket square should be white linen or silk, folded neatly. It should not be a flamboyant, colorful piece. A classic puff fold or a simple presidential fold is the best choice. Your cufflinks, by their nature, are the only other piece of “jewelry” you are wearing besides your watch. Let them stand out by keeping everything else clean and simple.

  • Shirt Studs: As mentioned, your cufflinks and shirt studs should be coordinated. If your shirt doesn’t have studs, that’s fine. The cufflinks become the single point of interest on your shirt cuff.

Conclusion

Wearing cufflinks with a dinner jacket is an act of refinement. It’s a detail that separates the prepared from the unprepared. By understanding the classic materials, coordinating your metals and shirt studs, and mastering the simple act of fastening them correctly, you can ensure that your cufflinks are not just an accessory but a statement of your personal style and attention to detail. This guide provides the blueprint for making a flawless impression. Remember, the goal is not to be noticed for your cufflinks, but for the overall elegance and cohesion of your formal attire. When done correctly, your cufflinks will be an integral part of an ensemble that speaks to a timeless sense of style and sophistication.