The Ultimate Guide: How to Wear Cufflinks with a Double-Breasted Suit

The double-breasted suit is the epitome of classic power and sartorial elegance. Its broad lapels and overlapping front create a silhouette of authority and sophistication. To complete this commanding look, the right accessories are not just an option—they are a necessity. Among them, cufflinks play a crucial, yet often misunderstood, role. They are the subtle punctuation mark that elevates a well-dressed man to a truly impeccable one. This guide will walk you through the definitive art of pairing cufflinks with a double-breasted suit, transforming a good outfit into a great one. We will move beyond the basics, focusing on practical, actionable advice that will empower you to create a flawless, polished, and powerful aesthetic every time.

Decoding the Double-Breasted Suit: The Canvas for Your Cufflinks

Before we dive into the cufflinks themselves, a brief understanding of the double-breasted suit’s structure is paramount. Unlike its single-breasted counterpart, the double-breasted suit features two parallel columns of buttons and a front that overlaps significantly. This inherent formality dictates a certain approach to accessorizing. The suit itself is the main event; your cufflinks are the supporting cast. They should complement, not compete with, the suit’s structured grandeur.

Key elements of the double-breasted suit to consider:

• Fabric and Weave: Is the suit a high-sheen mohair, a textured tweed, or a classic worsted wool? The texture of the suit should influence the material and finish of your cufflinks.

• Color: A navy suit, a charcoal grey, or a bold pinstripe each presents a different backdrop for your accessories.

• Lapel Style: Peak lapels are the most common and most formal choice for a double-breasted suit, reinforcing its sharp, angular lines.

• Button Configuration: A “6-on-2” (six buttons total, two functional) or a “6-on-1” configuration is standard. The formality of the suit is tied to these details, and your accessories must match.

The Foundation: The Right Shirt for Your Cufflinks

Your cufflinks are worthless without the proper shirt. The choice of shirt is the most critical decision in this entire process. The shirt must be a French cuff (or double cuff) shirt. Anything else is a non-starter. A French cuff shirt has longer, folded-back cuffs with buttonholes on both sides, but no buttons. This is what allows for the use of cufflinks.

When selecting a shirt, keep these points in mind:

• Fit is Everything: The sleeves must be the perfect length. They should end exactly at the break of the wrist, allowing the cuff to peek out about half an inch from the jacket sleeve. Too long, and the cufflinks are hidden. Too short, and the shirt sleeve rides up, looking sloppy.

• Fabric and Weave: A crisp, white poplin or twill shirt is the most versatile and formal choice. It provides a clean, neutral background that makes your cufflinks stand out without being garish. A subtle herringbone or fine stripe can also work, but avoid overly busy patterns that will clash with your suit or cufflinks.

• Collar Style: A spread or semi-spread collar is the most common and balanced choice for a double-breasted suit. The strong lines of the lapels are complemented by the wider collar.

Practical Application: You are wearing a charcoal worsted wool double-breasted suit. A crisp white twill French cuff shirt is the ideal foundation. The slight texture of the twill complements the wool, and the bright white offers a perfect contrast. The clean lines of the shirt will not compete with the suit’s structured aesthetic, allowing your cufflinks to shine as a sophisticated accent.

Choosing the Perfect Cufflinks: A Masterclass in Subtlety

The world of cufflinks is vast, but for a double-breasted suit, we must narrow our focus. The key is to select cufflinks that enhance, not overpower, the suit’s inherent authority. Think of them as a finishing touch, not a centerpiece.

Rule 1: Match the Metal

This is the golden rule of accessorizing with a double-breasted suit. The metal of your cufflinks should match the metal of any other visible accessories you are wearing. This creates a cohesive and polished look.

• Watch: If you are wearing a watch with a silver or stainless steel case, your cufflinks should be silver, rhodium-plated, or white gold.

• Belt Buckle: While often hidden by a double-breasted jacket, if your belt buckle is visible, it should also match.

• Tie Bar (if worn): If you choose to wear a tie bar, it must match the cufflinks exactly.

Practical Application: You’ve selected a navy pinstripe double-breasted suit. Your watch is a classic stainless steel model with a white dial. Your cufflinks should be a clean, simple design in rhodium or sterling silver. This creates a seamless flow of metallic tones, demonstrating a meticulous attention to detail. Avoid yellow gold cufflinks in this scenario, as they would clash with the cool tones of the stainless steel.

Rule 2: Consider the Formality and Occasion

The formality of the event and the suit itself should dictate the type of cufflinks you choose.

• Black Tie/Formal: For a black tie event with a double-breasted tuxedo (a rare but highly formal choice), your cufflinks should be simple and elegant. Onyx, mother-of-pearl, or a classic silver or gold knot are perfect. These are traditional choices that signal respect for the occasion.

• Business/Professional: For a business setting, choose cufflinks that are sophisticated but not overly flashy. Rectangular or oval cufflinks with a subtle pattern, or a simple cabochon stone (like lapis lazuli or tiger’s eye), work well. They project confidence and taste without being distracting.

• Creative/Social: For a less formal, creative setting, you have more leeway. You can choose cufflinks with a more unique design, perhaps a geometric pattern or a pop of color that subtly coordinates with your tie or pocket square. However, even here, avoid novelty cufflinks (e.g., miniature sports cars or cartoon characters), as they detract from the gravitas of a double-breasted suit.

Practical Application: You’re heading to a high-stakes business meeting in a charcoal grey double-breasted suit. Your cufflinks should be professional and understated. A pair of sterling silver cufflinks with a rectangular, engine-turned pattern would be an excellent choice. The subtle pattern adds visual interest without being loud, and the metal is classic and refined.

Rule 3: Balance and Proportion

The size and style of your cufflinks should be in proportion to your build and the suit’s lapels.

• Large Build/Broad Lapels: A larger gentleman with broad shoulders and wide lapels can handle slightly larger, more substantial cufflinks. A small, delicate cufflink might get lost in the grandeur of the suit.

• Slim Build/Narrower Lapels: A slimmer build and more moderate lapels will be complemented by smaller, more understated cufflinks. A large, chunky cufflink will look out of place and disproportionate.

Practical Application: You have a commanding, muscular build and are wearing a double-breasted suit with broad peak lapels. A pair of slightly oversized sterling silver oval cufflinks with a deep blue lapis lazuli insert would be a great choice. The size and color are bold enough to stand up to the suit’s presence, but the design is still classic and elegant.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Wearing Your Cufflinks

Putting on cufflinks correctly is a skill that takes a moment to master but is essential for a polished look.

1. Fold the Cuff: After putting on your French cuff shirt, fold the cuff back on itself. The cuff should be doubled up, with the buttonholes on both sides aligned.

2. Align the Buttonholes: Bring the two sides of the cuff together so that the buttonholes are perfectly aligned. They should be positioned on the inside of the wrist, not on the outside.

3. Insert the Cufflink: Slide the cufflink through all four buttonholes.

4. Secure the Cufflink: Depending on the cufflink type (toggle, whaleback, bullet back), secure it in place.

   • Toggle Cufflinks: These have a small, hinged post. Flip the post to be perpendicular to the cufflink face to secure it.

   • Whaleback Cufflinks: These have a flat, wide back. Flip the back to be perpendicular to the post to secure it.

   • Bullet Back Cufflinks: These have a cylindrical “bullet” that rotates. Flip the bullet to be perpendicular to the post.

   • Chain Link Cufflinks: These are two faces connected by a small chain. Simply pull the second face through the buttonholes. These are a very traditional and elegant choice.

Practical Application: You are at a formal event, and you have put on your shirt and double-breasted suit. The cuffs are folded back, and you are ready to put on your cufflinks. You’ve chosen a pair of elegant mother-of-pearl cufflinks with a toggle back. You slide the cufflink through the four aligned buttonholes, and with a quick flick of the thumb and forefinger, you flip the toggle post to a perpendicular position, securing the cufflink firmly in place. The process is quick, clean, and ensures your cuffs are perfectly positioned.

The Art of the Finish: Bringing It All Together

Your cufflinks are not an isolated accessory. They must be part of a harmonious whole. Here is how to ensure everything works together seamlessly.

The Tie and Pocket Square Conundrum

The double-breasted suit’s wide lapels and structured chest can handle a wider tie. A solid silk tie or a subtle pattern is an excellent choice. The color should either complement the suit or provide a tasteful contrast.

• Tie: When wearing a double-breasted suit, a classic Windsor or half-Windsor knot is often the most balanced choice, matching the suit’s formality and broad silhouette.

• Pocket Square: A pocket square is a must. It is the final element that ties the entire look together. The color or pattern of the pocket square can subtly pick up a color from your tie or even a small detail in your cufflinks. The most formal option is a crisp white linen pocket square, which works with every suit and cufflink combination.

Practical Application: You are wearing a navy double-breasted suit with a crisp white French cuff shirt. You have chosen rhodium-plated cufflinks with a small, blue enamel detail. Your tie is a solid navy blue, and your pocket square is a white linen square with a small, light blue border. This entire ensemble is a masterclass in coordination. The cufflinks connect to the suit through their metal, and the blue enamel provides a subtle link to the tie and pocket square, creating a cohesive and sophisticated look without being overly “matchy.” The white pocket square also reinforces the clean, classic lines of the white shirt.

The Power of Subtlety

The true elegance of wearing cufflinks with a double-breasted suit lies in their subtlety. They should not be the first thing people notice. They should be something that is observed upon closer inspection, a small detail that reveals the wearer’s exceptional taste and meticulous attention to detail. When you extend your hand to shake someone’s, the flash of the cufflink is a quiet signal of your sartorial authority.

The Definitive Do’s and Don’ts

To summarize and provide a final, actionable checklist:

Do:

• Do choose French cuff shirts only.

• Do match your cufflink metal to your watch and any other visible metal accessories.

• Do select cufflinks that are appropriate for the formality of the event.

• Do consider the size and proportion of your cufflinks in relation to your build and the suit.

• Do ensure your shirt cuffs are the correct length, showing about half an inch of cuff.

• Do opt for classic, timeless designs like simple knots, onyx, or mother-of-pearl for maximum versatility.

• Do use a tie and pocket square to create a harmonious overall look.

Don’t:

• Don’t wear novelty cufflinks (e.g., cartoon characters, sports logos). They are the antithesis of the double-breasted suit’s gravitas.

• Don’t mix metals. Yellow gold cufflinks with a silver watch is a cardinal sin of men’s style.

• Don’t choose cufflinks that are overly large or flashy. They should be a subtle accent.

• Don’t wear a shirt with button cuffs. This is a fundamental error.

• Don’t let your cufflinks be completely hidden by your jacket sleeve. The shirt cuff should always be visible.

Conclusion: The Final Word on Cufflinks and the Double-Breasted Suit

The double-breasted suit is a statement of confidence, power, and timeless style. The correct use of cufflinks is the final, essential step in mastering this look. By understanding the suit’s structure, choosing the right shirt, and selecting cufflinks that are coordinated, proportional, and appropriate, you can create a truly impeccable ensemble. The focus is on subtlety, balance, and the creation of a cohesive, polished aesthetic. This isn’t just about wearing an accessory; it’s about demonstrating a profound understanding of sartorial principles, elevating your presence and conveying an image of considered authority and effortless elegance.